First they came…..

January 27, 2025

Eighty years ago today Auschwitz was liberated. You can live-stream the ceremonies taking place today here .

Polish television will broadcast the commemoration, starting at 4:00 pm.

Why mention this on a blog devoted to wine pr? It may seem a stretch, but those of us who work to publicize and promote wine also swim in the currents of our culture, and that includes paying attention to works of literature and art which vividly express the topics of the day.

In musing about this grim anniversary, I realize I’ve seen a lot of attention lately on a poem written by Martin Niemöller, who was a German Lutheran pastor (1892-1984). Here it is in a powerful reading.

First they came for the Communists
And I did not speak out
Because I was not a Communist
Then they came for the Socialists
And I did not speak out
Because I was not a Socialist
Then they came for the trade unionists
And I did not speak out
Because I was not a trade unionist
Then they came for the Jews
And I did not speak out
Because I was not a Jew
Then they came for me
And there was no one left
To speak out for me.

As Wikipedia explains: Martin Niemöller was a German Lutheran pastor and theologian born in Lippstadt, Germany, in 1892. Niemöller was an anti-Communist and supported Adolf Hitler’s rise to power. But when Hitler insisted on the supremacy of the state over religion, Niemöller became disillusioned. He became the leader of a group of German clergymen opposed to Hitler. In 1937 he was arrested and eventually confined at both the Sachsenhausen and Dachau concentrated camps. He was released in 1945 by the Allies. He continued his career in Germany as a cleric and as a leading voice of penance and reconciliation for the German people after World War II.
The poem was part of a speech he gave on January 6, 1946 in Frankfurt. It has resonated across the world and today the verses are displayed prominently at the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum in Washington, D.C., as well as at many other Holocaust memorials including Yad Vashem in West Jerusalem. The power of these words is undeniable: as Wikipedia explains, “Many variations and adaptations in the spirit of the original have been published in the English language. It deals with themes of persecution, guilt, repentance, solidarity, and personal responsibility.”

The reach of Niemöller’s words is long and wide; one example is in James Baldwin’s Letter To Angela Davis, in 1970: “For, if they take you in the morning, they will be coming for us that night.”

Here is a discussion between historians with more background.
These historians summed up the power of these words: “After the Holocaust, Niemöller called for acknowledgment of German guilt. As our current moment draws us to Niemöller’s words once again, we will discuss their origins and reflect on their enduring power to inspire individuals to act and recognize our common humanity.”

On this grim anniversary, as people remember Auschwitz, the enduring power of a certain set of words is worth reflecting upon. Of course a far cry from marketing a new Merlot….but a reminder that language matters.

Happy MLK Day

Woody Guthrie
Woody Guthrie

In time for MLK Day, let me share a story where journalism, art and injustice intersect (but not wine).
In 1948 Woody Guthrie read an article (or heard a story on the radio, accounts vary) about a plane crash over Los Gatos Canyon, southwest of Fresno. The crew of four and 28 passengers all died. The crew’s names were listed but not the passengers. The 28 were Mexican farm worker s: they were ‘deportees.’ They were buried in a mass grave with a plaque only reading: “28 Mexican citizens who died in an airplane accident near Coalinga.”
Woody was upset that the 28 were not named. He wrote a poem about the incident and ten years later Martin Hoffman set it to music. Many singers have since performed the song, including Arlo Guthrie, Pete Seeger, Bob Dylan, Joan Baez, Judy Collins, Johnny Cash, Dolly Parton, Bruce Springsteen, Lyle Lovett, The Highwaymen and John McCutcheon.

In fact, to underline the injustice of not being named, Woody’s lyrics included names he made up to make the point.
The crops are all in, and the peaches are rotten
The oranges are all packed in the creosote dumps
They’re flying them back to the Mexican Border
To save all their money then wade back again
My father’s own father, he waded that river
Others before him have done just the same
They died in the hills, and they died in the valleys
Some went to heaven without any name
Goodbye to my Juan, goodbye Rosalita
Adiós mi amigo, Jesus y María
You won’t have a name when you ride the big airplane
All they will call you will be “Deportee”
Some of us are illegal, and others not wanted
Our work contracts out, and we have to move on
Six-hundred miles to the Mexican Border
They chase us like rustlers, like outlaws, like thieves
Goodbye to my Juan, goodbye Rosalita
Adiós mi amigo, Jesus y María
You won’t have a name when you ride the big airplane
And all they will call you will be “Deportee”
The sky-plane caught fire over Los Gatos Canyon
A fireball of thunder, it shook all the hills
Who are all these dear friends scattered like dry leaves?
The radio said they were just deportees
Goodbye to my Juan, goodbye Rosalita (Adiós a mi Juan, adiós Rosalita)
Adiós mi amigo, Jesus y María
You won’t have a name when you ride the big airplane
All they will call you will be “Deportee”
Adiós a mi Juan (Goodbye to my Juan, goodbye Rosalita)
Adiós Rosalita
Adiós mis amigos, Jesus and Maria
You won’t have a name when you ride the big airplane
All they will call you is deportee

In recent years several people were inspired by the song to research the story and in fact, did identify the 28 people. Tim Hernandez wrote All They Will Call You, which detailed all of their names and stories.

Arlo Guthrie recommends the book: “In his lyrics to ‘Plane Wreck at Los Gatos,’ my father, Woody Guthrie, asked a simple question, ‘Who are these friends?’ and finally someone has answered that question. It was unknown if their stories would ever come to light, or if they would simply remain ghosts without names, as if they had no lives at all—as if they didn’t count. Through Hernandez’s amazing work, I now know who these people were, their lives, their loves, and their journeys. All They Will Call You is a heart-wrenching read for anyone who cares, and the names—now etched in stone in a far-off graveyard—have become friends who will travel with me as long as I am walking.”
The Smithsonian covered this story, as did KQED.
In 2018 a plaque was added to the gravesite listing all the names.
Listening to the different interpretations of this classic song is worthwhile…my favorite versions are John McCutcheon’s and Judy Collins’s.
“Happy” MLK Day.

Hermès and the who-me school of marketing

In this hectic buy-buy sell-sell season one producer rises above the noise and there may be some borrowable insights from taking a look. I propose Hermès, a ‘producer’ who’s definitively mastered the art of the luxury ‘game.’

Back in 2009 I enjoyed Michael Tonnello’s book Bringing Home the Birkin: My Life in Hot Pursuit of the World’s Most Coveted Handbag.  It was his story of globe-trotting in search of buying Birkin purses and his adventures along the way. Fast forward to a recent 60 Minutes profile of Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermes’ artistic director. The segment was a great behind the scenes look inside the atelier as well as inside how the brand presents itself. There were two comments with some relevance to wine marketing. These come up at 3:04 here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ah2eAynWzEg

One was when the interviewer, Sharyn Alfonsi, asked: “Do you ever make a decision based on cost? Budget? Like, “This will be less expensive if we do it this way.” M. Dumas answered: “I can’t work like that. I’ve always heard that Hermès is very costly. It’s not expensive. It’s costly.”

Alfonsi asked; “What’s the difference?” Dumas answered: “The cost is the actual price of making an object properly with the required level of attention so that you have an object of quality. Expensive is a product, which is not delivering what it’s supposed to deliver, but you’ve paid quite a large amount of money for it, and then it betrays you. That’s expensive.”

Comment #2: “The company has never had a marketing department. Its allure comes from a century of superb craftsmanship and serendipity. Take this trapezoid shaped purse. In 1935, Dumas’ grandfather designed the bag; it wasn’t a hit. But as legend has it, 20 years later, an expecting Grace Kelly used the bag to hide her belly from peering paparazzi. Soon women flooded Hermès, asking for what was eventually renamed the Kelly bag. Hermès scarves have been favored by American royalty and actual royalty for decades. The kind of product placement money can’t buy. Even the brand’s famous citrus-colored boxes, a color the company trademarked in the U.S., was a happy accident of the 1940s.”

Costly vs. expensive. In the eyes (or should we say palate) of the customer? When you consider the landscape of wine bottles and the pricing that often doesn’t seem to make sense, this explanation of ‘costly’ vs. ‘expensive,’ and the idea that you’ve been betrayed by buying something very costly….hits home.

If you’re reading this, you’re probably a bit like me, sussing out the ‘marketing’ in the most mundane situations. When a product—dare we say ‘empire’—like Hermès, proclaims that they essentially don’t market, I’m even more intrigued.

Fourteen million people follow their Instagram https://www.instagram.com/hermes/.

Someone had fun making a video of a dog on the loose after hours in an Hermès shop (“Who let the dog out?): https://www.instagram.com/p/DDzmC6xssJR/ . A gifted animator created a clever cartoonish rendering of an apple transforming into a purse: https://www.instagram.com/p/DDt1UclszQF/ .

I admire the company’s huge footprints in the world of horses and equestrian competition, of course tracing right back to their origin as a saddlemaker. You can experience an ASMR-ish sound-bath horse grooming session on their IG https://www.instagram.com/p/DCRm0urMZma/ or appreciate the pure art behind this horse’s fall foliage attire https://www.instagram.com/p/DAsm-0pMUpC/

Or yet another huge endeavor, a YouTube channel documenting all of their equestrian involvement, https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLD1G-Fq3N1R8YhTDTfJYoSOcGURV6n3BV.

You’ll visit with the riders Hermès supports, who talk about going faster, ‘daring to be generous,’ riding bareback, learning from defeat and so on; there are also segments with saddle makers and other craftspeople.

So after a glimpse into the Hermès mindset, what do we bring back to our desks? Take a look at your craftsmanship; is it top shelf? Do you employ practices and specialized equipment that you should be talking about more? What about your grapes and your vineyards—they must be unique—are you detailing that with accuracy as a point of difference to attract customers?

Are you branching out to support some type of field or endeavor with a thematic link to your name or identity?

And how do you walk the walk of being exclusive but not too exclusive? How easy or hard is it for a new customer to buy your wine? Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen’s recent Robb Report piece about the allocation system is a great read on this aspect: https://robbreport.com/food-drink/wine/against-winery-allocation-system-1236110110/

Food for thought in the New Year.

Happy holidays!

Navigating the World of Wine PR Amid Changing Health Warnings on Alcohol Consumption

_dsf4615-2We are turning over the blog today to a guest. Amber Burke is a WSET-certified PR consultant, wine writer and influencer with a passion for sharing her knowledge and expertise in the world of wine. Having lived in Europe and California, today she’s based on the East Coast. With over 12 years of industry experience, Amber combines her skills to foster a deep appreciation for the art of wine. 

The wine industry has always held a unique space in the world of public relations. Wine is not just a product—it is a lifestyle symbol, a cultural touchstone, and for many, a luxury associated with celebration and social interaction. However, as global health organizations increasingly tighten their recommendations and warnings around alcohol consumption, including wine, the PR landscape for wineries, vineyards, and distributors has become more complex. Navigating this evolving environment requires a balance of strategic messaging, education, and sensitivity to public concerns.

The Shift in Health Messaging

Health warnings on alcohol consumption have intensified over the past decade. Public health bodies, like the World Health Organization (WHO), have underscored the link between alcohol consumption and various health risks, from liver disease to cancer. These warnings are not new, but they are becoming more prominent in public discourse, especially as governments and health advocates push for clearer labeling and stricter advertising regulations.

Something to note in these “studies” being released by the WHO is that they are being supplied and lobbied by Prohibitionist organizations with their own political and moral agendas.

Wine, often marketed for its supposed health benefits—such as the antioxidants in red wine—has come under particular scrutiny. The previous narrative of “a glass of wine a day” promoting heart health has been increasingly challenged by new studies suggesting that even moderate alcohol consumption carries risks. For wine producers and marketers, this creates a dilemma: How do you promote a product that, while culturally ingrained, is being targeted by evolving health science?

The Role of Wine PR

The primary role of public relations in the wine industry is to shape public perception while managing potential crises. With the growing prevalence of health warnings, PR strategies must evolve to address consumer concerns and promote responsible messaging without alienating the core audience of wine enthusiasts.

Here are some key approaches that wine PR professionals can adopt:

  1. Emphasizing Transparency and Responsibility

One of the most effective ways to navigate the health warnings is by leaning into transparency. Acknowledging the health risks associated with alcohol consumption and promoting responsible drinking can go a long way in building consumer trust. Wine brands that communicate openly about the potential risks, while providing guidance on moderation, will likely foster stronger connections with health-conscious consumers.

Incorporating responsible drinking messages into marketing materials and collaborating with health organizations can help brands align themselves with public health priorities, showcasing that they are aware of the issues and care about their consumers’ well-being.

  1. Highlighting the Craft, Culture, and Sustainability

Health warnings should not be the sole focus of wine PR. Wineries can shift their messaging to emphasize the artistry, heritage, and sustainability aspects of wine production. Storytelling that centers around the craftsmanship behind each bottle, the family-owned vineyards, or eco-friendly farming practices allows brands to create a narrative that transcends the product itself.

Sustainability, in particular, resonates with modern consumers who prioritize environmental responsibility. By championing organic farming, reduced carbon footprints, and eco-conscious packaging, wineries can tap into broader trends that appeal to ethically driven audiences.

  1. Education as Engagement

Rather than avoiding discussions about health, wine PR professionals can position themselves as educators. Offering content that educates consumers about wine pairings, the intricacies of wine production, and the importance of savoring wine as part of a balanced lifestyle can change the conversation. Consumers are more likely to trust a brand that provides valuable, knowledgeable insights rather than one that seems dismissive of the changing health landscape.

Hosting webinars, wine-tasting events, or blog posts that include discussions on responsible consumption can strike the right balance, combining education with engagement. Additionally, partnering with nutritionists or health experts to provide a balanced perspective can lend credibility to these efforts.

  1. Navigating New Regulations

As health warnings become more prominent, regulatory changes are likely to follow. From enhanced labeling requirements to advertising restrictions, the wine industry will need to stay ahead of these changes. Effective PR strategies must anticipate regulatory shifts and adjust marketing campaigns accordingly to avoid potential pitfalls.

Monitoring global regulatory trends and aligning with them early on can help brands maintain compliance while protecting their reputation. Proactive communication about adherence to new guidelines can further solidify a brand’s image as responsible and forward-thinking.

  1. Repositioning the Wine Experience

As the public becomes more health-conscious, PR strategies should consider repositioning wine from an everyday drink to a more occasional indulgence. Messaging that highlights wine as part of a curated experience—such as enjoying a fine bottle during special moments or as part of a gastronomic journey—can distance the product from its association with regular consumption.

Promoting limited-edition releases, curated tasting experiences, or collaborations with high-end chefs can shift the focus to wine as a cultural and culinary highlight, rather than an everyday indulgence.

The Path Forward

Navigating the world of wine PR amid changing health warnings on alcohol consumption requires a thoughtful, multi-faceted approach. By prioritizing transparency, embracing the cultural and artisanal elements of wine, and providing consumers with valuable education, wineries and wine marketers can maintain strong, trusting relationships with their audience. Health warnings are unlikely to diminish the appeal of wine entirely, but they will reshape the way the industry communicates. PR professionals who adapt to these shifts, promote responsible enjoyment, and align with broader consumer values will find opportunities for growth and resilience in the evolving landscape.

Ultimately, the wine industry’s ability to maintain its allure, while addressing health concerns head-on, will determine its long-term success in a more health-conscious world.

Cultural headwinds and the wine business

Two streams just came together and I thought I’d share.

person holding white dandelion flower

If you’re in the wine business you probably read the most recent Direct To Consumer Wine Shipping Report, which is an annual collaboration between Sovos ShipCompliant and Wine Business Analytics. It contains the most up-to-date and accurate representation of the American direct-to-consumer wine shipping channel as well as data on growth trends, regional demand, varietal trends and more. “Beware of continuing cultural headwinds,” the Report said. “We view with concern for the DtC shipping channel several headwinds that could diminish wine consumption overall and with it DtC shipments in 2024. They include continued reduction of alcohol consumption, particularly among younger adults, the rise of alternative alcoholic beverages, anti-alcohol campaigns coordinated by powerful international bodies, and increased competition from cannabis as more states legalize recreational sales,” they said.

Cultural headwinds. How do you capture those winds? How can you bend them your way if you’re publicizing a specific Cabernet Sauvignon? That’s a powerful and provocative admonition.

So while absorbing that and using that lens to review all the wines I represent, I also reflected on what I do face every day. People often ask me what the most interesting things I do or see as a publicist in the wine business are.

I do see a lot. A lot which is often frustrating…sometimes clever.  Sometimes it’s the simplest things that are the most effective. Often I see big-time missed opportunities.

I’d been mulling over writing a post about this when life forced my hand, so to speak. That would be Josh Cellars’ amazing “15 minutes of fame” from being prominently featured in Saturday Night Live’s cold open this past weekend. You can see it here at 2:57. Maya Rudolph as Kamala Harris and Andy Samberg as Doug Emhoff are watching the recent VP debate on their couch at home. Rudolph/Harris is getting upset as she watches; she says she wishes she’d chosen Josh, not as in the Pennsylvania governor, Josh Shapiro, but the wine. She pours herself a glass and the bottle and label are front & center. Unfortunately, this should have been front & center on all of Josh Cellars’ platforms immediately…as of yet, not yet. Hopefully it will be soon. So here’s a case of what looks like amazing serendipity—a wine-oriented SNL writer who thought of the connection between the wine and the governor. This is a rare thing, not to mention SNL’s huge reach.

Then there are things that are frustrating….

Here’s another recent experience: for six months I assisted a writer working on a thematic story for a very major magazine. The writer interviewed the winemaker-owner (it’s a small brand with a unique personality), she tasted all of the wines, she followed up with questions. Then came her apologetic email with a copy of the finished article: all that remained to do with my client was a review of one wine; he was not included in the accompanying article. Space apparently was the culprit; the writer was very chagrined. Darn, right?

I represent wineries outside of Napa and Sonoma—Lake County, Mendocino, Arizona. Maybe you wouldn’t be surprised to find out that many major wine publications aren’t reviewing wines from these regions. Why? Budgets? Prejudice? Hard to say, but very frustrating.

Recently the long-time wine columnist at a major paper retired; ironically that column really did ‘move the meter’ when it came to wine sales of wines that were recommended. To be replaced by….not the same format, to be determined, say the editors. Another darn.

One other ‘slice of my life’ to share: my constant refrain to wineries to shoot their own iPhone videos and pop them up on Instagram or Facebook. I literally see with my own eyes what greater impact those types of efforts have….versus art-directed still lifes or carefully composed landscape shots.

 

What’s the motto or bottom line? Keep your eyes peeled on your environment so you can course-correct quickly. Be creative. Act; don’t just watch and go with the flow!